22. Nevada

State facts
Nickname: Silver State
Capital City: Las Vegas
Famous for: the slot machine, Burning Man

We only spent a few days in Nevada. So close to our first big stop in Bakersfield, we were driven by time. We have family there who were expecting us and we had our damaged wheel and a few bits waiting to be fixed.

We planned to drive long days so left Wendover early morning in the fog and headed south-west on Hyw 93, the most direct route for us.

Foggy morning  Wendover, Nevada February 2013

Foggy morning
Wendover, Nevada
February 2013

Still snow patches here and there but generally the weather was warmer and warmer as we made our progress. Our campsites were the desert on public lands where we had our first opportunity to climb out of our top hatch make ourselves comfortable on the top of the box and enjoy stargazing in the mild February desert nights.

Camp in Nevada. Still snow but getting warmer.

Camp in Nevada. Still snow but getting warmer.
Nevada
February 2013

 

Our first breakfast with open hatch in the mild morning weather. Nevada February 2013

Our first breakfast with open hatch in the mild morning weather.
Nevada
February 2013

We read somewhere about an RV park just few miles from Beatty, where they had 3 private hot spring in antique bath houses which sounded cool. And as we were heading that way we thought it’d be almost a crime not to stay there for a night. We rolled up in the early hours of the evening got ourselves a good spot had a short hike up the hill then headed to the antique bath house  They had 3 different houses with different temperatures. The “antique bath house  is a bit strong title -I imagined something like at the end of the film Maverick (with Mel Gibson) sitting in a bathtub in a gorgeous colonial spa…. this was more like 3 tin sheds with stingy lights but I liked the pool. I guess they wanted to leave a natural feeling so the bottom of the pool was gravel which was slightly weird first, but over all we did like it. It sure was private and we stayed there for a long time enjoying the hot water. Here we met a lovely couple from Oregon. We had a very nice chat. They were on their way to Death Valley (as we were too) and recommended an RV place to stay where they were planning to stay. It was good to know as usually we rarely have forward plans on camp sites.

This was our first official sunny and genuinely warm morning. No jackets, no scarf or gloves! We set off first thing to the nearby town, Beatty for a quick breakfast and coffee then planned to move on. As always we were looking for the cafe where locals go, and we found it. A bright, little cafe with ’50’s design and delicious eggs & bacon (and some pancakes) An eccentric, middle aged gentleman from the opposite table was interested in our vehicle and our travels so we invited him to sit with us. We had a great long chat and as our time in the cafe was approaching to the end he invited us to his home which was just across the road. After we paid we headed to his property and parked up. His place was a warehouse conversion with unique interior. Rupert, our host was waiting for us with the kettle and the fire in the fireplace on. He was an artist, a designer, a collector of antique art and furniture, an architect, a big thinker. His place was a real inspiration of great living space with style. He had a large black and white cat shyly hiding from us and a Harley Davidson parked up in one of the corners of the warehouse.

IMG_8451IMG_8457 IMG_8455

He was a racing-car enthusiast (he designed a racetrack which he was planning to bring it alive southern Nevada) and he was a lover of stylish coffee table books. Rupert is Canadian born from English parents and though he never lived in England in his heart and in his all being he seemed very much English to me. As John is a designer, architect and engineer himself, I think this was one the reasons they were gravitated to one another and enjoyed each other’s company very much. Regrettably our time was running out -as we spent half a day at Rupert’s home, and we had to say goodbye and move on.

We were going to take Hwy 374 which is the shortest (and only) way to Death Valley but within a short 15 minutes there was a turn off sign to Titus Canyon which was effectively a scenic route to our destination. We decided to take this dirt road instead. (at this point we were more confident that our wheel would hold out) The dirt road was rough first and we were making a pretty slow progress but then when the hills started appearing the road surface turned smoother and so much more interesting. The narrow road wiggled upwards by the side of the higher and higher hills opening our view to wonderful mountains in the distance. There were some turns and twists that I thought we were too big for but as I was holding my breath and griping on the handle John effortlessly maneuvered us round up then down on the steep skinny route.

Driving through Titus Canyon Nevada February 2013

Driving through Titus Canyon
Nevada
February 2013

 

Driving through Titus Canyon Nevada February 2013

Driving through Titus Canyon
Nevada
February 2013

And after some long hours (at least it seemed long to me) we were over and on the other side of this beautiful and breath-catching hill-chains and rolled on to a flatter surface in a basin surrounded by mighty rocky mountains.

Driving through Titus Canyon Nevada February 2013

Driving through Titus Canyon
Nevada
February 2013

 

Driving through Titus Canyon Nevada February 2013

Driving through Titus Canyon
Nevada
February 2013

We found out there was an vintage automobile gathering over the past weekend in Beatty and many of the participants choose this route to leave instead of the highway so we had some company once we stopped for a short hill-climbing. There was a historic sign claiming that where we stand there are 100 years old supposedly Native American rock paintings -I wasn’t sure what they really were but it was a good stop for stretching our legs in the wonderful warm air. The oldsmobile people caught up with us. They were a cheerful bunch -some of them dressed in vintage costume emphasizing their love to the era. We equally admired each other’s automobiles, took some photos and they scooted on leaving a small dust cloud behind.

Driving through Titus Canyon Nevada February 2013

Driving through Titus Canyon
Nevada
February 2013

IMG_8525

Driving through Titus Canyon
Nevada
February 2013

I mentally prepared myself for another hour or so slowly rolling up on narrow roads then down on steep ones to get over the monumental mountains ahead of us so I thought we better get going. As we were making our way towards the rocky giants, instead of going uphill we entered a breathtaking deep canyon that winded our way between smooth red, white, grey stripy rocks and eventually lead our way out to a sunny parking patch. The actual canyon drive took about 15-20 minutes and we didn’t want it to end. (the whole drive + hike was all together about 3-3.5 hours) The wonderful thing about this drive was that we didn’t know what to expect, and as it’s a one way only route the scenery was building up to the grand finale of the canyon. Number one drive for us! and any who isn’t in a hurry and don’t mind a little suspension work-out on their vehicle.

Driving through Titus Canyon Nevada February 2013

Driving through Titus Canyon
Nevada
February 2013

 

Driving through Titus Canyon Nevada February 2013

Driving through Titus Canyon
Nevada
February 2013

 

Somewhere through our drive in the canyon we crossed the state border to California. We arrived at an oasis of RV parks, shops, restaurant, bar etc in the desert of Death Valley and what we felt doing right away was to get a couple of cold beers at the bar before we check in to the RV park for the night. As we were enjoying our beer there was the lovely couple from Oregon walked in to the bar! We all cheered loud and greeted each other as old friends. We had a great evening and we got an invite for a hike in the Mosaic Canyon for the next day with them.

This was our first really busy and slightly noisy RV park experience -that just made us appreciate all our previous nature campsite more. As we had dinner and maybe a couple more beers we got to the RV place in the dark and just about found one spot to park up creating a little noise and a little diesel fume. Sorry.
After a patchy night sleep and about 15 people’s visits in the morning (completely new experience; in a busy RV park we can’t hide and clearly many people are interested in unusual RV vehicles) Anyhow, eventually we could set off with our friends for our hike.

Mosaic Canyon Nevada February 2013

Mosaic Canyon
California
February 2013

The canyon was beautiful the four of us had a great time and lovely chats, John and I got to do a little rock climbing and go a little further in canyon which we loved. A few hours later we had to say goodbye to our new friends and make a move again.

We found a wonderful stop for our last night in the rocky desert. One more peaceful and starry night.

BLM land camp California February 2013

BLM land camp
California
February 2013

 

Tomorrow we’ll be arriving to Bakersfield where family and a few repair work are waiting. Next, Bakersfield, CA.

21. Utah/ Nevada

Utah state facts
Nickname: Beehive State
Capital City: Salt Lake City
Birthplace of: beloved bandit Butch Cassidy (1866)
Famous for: Mormons, red-rock canyons, polygamy!
Best souvenir: Wasatch Brewery T-shirt: Polygamy Porter -Why Have One?

We were zig-zagging our way south from the Bear Lake, ID still sticking to small roads (but not too rough as we were still limping on three wheels). The weather was stunning and sunny all the way to Salt Lake City. This was the first city since the beginning of our journey we wanted to visit. Not that we are religious but we are interested in religion just a smuch as in culture, people, food and so on. Were fascinated by the little story we knew about the Latter Day Saint (LDS) religion, also known as the Mormons and thought where else we could find out more about it if not here, in Salt Lake City the capital city of (not just Utah but) the Mormon religion.

Salt Lake City was established in 1847 by several followers of the Mormon Church who extensively irrigated and cultivated the arid valley. The city’s population is nearly 190,000 and just less than half of this are members of the LDS Church. The city itself is very pretty and there’s a slight European feel to it with gorgeous old, colonial buildings and tram lines running across town yet surrounded by breathtaking snowy peaked mountains. Really beautiful. We could park Burt at the heart and also at the top of the city by the Town Hall Centre. This was great and everything we wanted to see was walking distance.

In downtown there lies the headquarters of the Church on the 10 acre Temple Square where you can find the Church Office building, the Temple (where not just visitors but certain members of the Church aren’t allowed to go in), Culture Centre, Library and The LDS Museum. This was a fascinating experience and we spent a few hours wandering around and talking to the well groomed, well spoken (single, young, female only) missionaries who are volunteer representatives of the Church and were from all around the world doing their 18 months “experience work” for the Church in order to participate in the religion on deeper levels.

This was a fascinating experience and we were glad we went even that the price we paid was to stay in a noisy and relatively expensive RV park in the outskirts of the city.

As we were still concerned about our worn-out wheel hub we had to plan our route shorter, more direct and on relatively smooth roads to Bakersfield, CA where John has family and we planned to stop there for a couple of months anyway. Now, we also planned to have all the repair jobs done (a few more adjustments and fixes too) there. So bearing all this in mind we decided -heavy heartedly, to miss out on southern Utah and just head across from Salt Lake to the Salt Flats on I-80.

Interstate 80 is bonkers. Flat, straight and looooong. The second part of the roads is flat as a pancake but was wonderfully weird.

From Salt Lake to Salt Flats. Utah February 2013
From Salt Lake to Salt Flats.
Utah
February 2013

 

From Salt Lake to Salt Flats. Can't go straighter than this. Utah February 2013
From Salt Lake to Salt Flats. Can’t go straighter than this.
Utah
February 2013

When we arrived at the Salt Flat we learned that it isn’t “ready” yet. Being too early in the year (1st Feb!) it was brown and wet. Someone would be disappointed but we loved it anyway.

Bonneville Salt Flats Utah February 2013
Bonneville Salt Flats
Utah
February 2013

 

Bonneville Salt Flats. Utah February 2013
Bonneville Salt Flats.
Utah
February 2013

 

Lunch at Bonneville Salt Flats. Utah February 2013
Lunch at Bonneville Salt Flats.
Utah
February 2013

After our late lunch we rolled in to town (Wendover) on our usual way…

Way to Wendover. Utah February 2013
Way to Wendover.
Utah
February 2013

It was getting late in the day to move on so after visiting the Wendover Airfield Museum (for John’s biggest joy), we had to stay in this town. Which was actually a fun experience for a couple of reasons. One; despite the snow patches the climate was considerably warmer (for my biggest joy) and Two; the town had 2 faces; being split by the Utah-Nevada state border, one side of the town looks just like a regular town with gas stations, supermarket, post office and so on but as we crossed one traffic light (and the border) we found ourselves in a neon city with huge casinos, bright lights, palm trees, harsh green fake grass and bars. We decided to stay this side of the town 🙂

20. Wyoming / Montana -West Yellowstone

Montana state facts
Nickname: Treasure State, Big Sky Country
Sale Tax: No state sales tax!
Birth Place of: Gary Cooper and legendary motorcycle daredevil Evel Knievel
Famous for: big sky, fly-fishing, cowboys and grissly bears

We spent an amazing and eventful couple of days in West Yellowstone where we came across with the sweetest cafe owners, a Hungarian urban-documentary photographer Zoltán Balogh -trying his spanking new Sony Alpha in the snowy un-urban national park, spent a pleasant evening with a very nice couple from Seattle, we saw even more volcanic geysers, bubbles and steam eruptions and had a good fortune to talk to a grizzly bear attack survivor, who told us his extraordinary story.

On our arrival, which was at around 10am, we decided to have breakfast at a local little cafe (Runnin Bear) Adorable little place that radiates its owners love and care. Besides the delicious full Americana breakfast, they gave us great tips for a day trip with Burt around the area.

After our long-stretched breakfast we popped in to the visitor centre where we booked our snowmobile trip for the the next day then decided to visit the bear/wolf closure before we head off for a little afternoon trip.

Grey Wolf  Bear and wolf closure West Yellowstone, MT January 2013
Grey Wolf
Bear and wolf closure
West Yellowstone, MT
January 2013

The clouser was very quiet. There was a guy with number of cameras, endless lenses, being busy taking photographs. We ended up chatting then invited him for our day trip. He was a multi award winning urban photographer from Hungary. (see his blog at the Link menu) He was here on a 10 days wildlife photo expedition that he won on a photo festival as first prize. He decided to stay behind from the others who, as in the past 8 days, went in to the park for the day to photograph bisons and stuff. He was very happy to take our offer and we spent a great afternoon together before we said our goodbyes.

Zoltan taking photo. North of West Yellowstone, MT January 2013
Zoltan’s taking photo.
North of West Yellowstone, MT
January 2013
Bighorn Sheep North of West Yellowstone, MT January 2013
Bighorn Sheep
North of West Yellowstone, MT
January 2013
North of West Yellowstone, MT January 2013
North of West Yellowstone, MT
January 2013

The next day John and I, another couple and our guide were gathering at the snowmobile rental for the kickoff of our day trip to the Park. It was a small group and it was perfect! As we crossed the Park entrance we were, again in Wyoming (who can keep track of this?) Stopping every now and then at interesting points or when spotted an animal.

A lone male bison crossing our path. Yellowstone Nat. Park Wyoming January 2013
A lone male bison crossing our path.
Yellowstone Nat. Park
Wyoming
January 2013
Steaming  Yellowstone Nat. Park Wyoming January 2013
Steaming
Yellowstone Nat. Park
Wyoming
January 2013

Our guide was thoroughly knowledgeable about the Park’s history just as much as he was passionate about its wildlife. We really enjoyed his talks and, as we found out he was a grizzly bear attack survivor. He eventually gave in John’s arm-twisting and told us his fascinating story. The day trip and the Park with its offerings was stunning. The weather turned beautiful and though still quite chilly (especially on the snowmobile) it was crystal clear and sunny.

our little group Yellowstone Nat. Park Wyoming January 2013
our little group
Yellowstone Nat. Park
Wyoming
January 2013
Yellowstone Nat. Park Wyoming January 2013
Yellowstone Nat. Park
Wyoming
January 2013

We drove to Old Faithful where we had lunch and saw the big geyser eruption which happens every 91 minutes.

Old Faithful Yellowstone Nat. Park Wyoming January 2013
Old Faithful
Yellowstone Nat. Park
Wyoming
January 2013

On our return we invited Annette and Rob (the other couple on our trip) for a drink as we had too much to talk about after a day like this! It was a wonderful day followed by a very pleasant evening with this sweet couple.

They predicted a big snowstorm as we were leaving, and they were right. It started with pretty heavy snowfall but we were leaving anyway and within 30 minutes the icy wind became very strong, and thick fog and slippery road surface made our trip less ordinary. We decided to press on and make as much mileage south as possible mainly because of the weather and because we were beginning to have problems starting Burt in big minuses.

Leaving West Yellowstone. January 2013
Leaving West Yellowstone.
January 2013

 

Usual job. Leaving West Yellowstone. January 2013
Usual job.
Leaving West Yellowstone.
January 2013

After a tense whole day drive we made 250 miles from West Yellowstone to the Bear Lake at the Idaho-Utah border. We were tired and hungry by the time we found our spot and and we were ready to bed. Despite the storm we had a peaceful night. Tomorrow Utah!

Camp by Bear Lake, ID January 2013
Camp by Bear Lake, ID
January 2013

Early breakfast then set off. By 8.30 we were on the much clearer road with blue sky and sunshine above us. We headed to Salt Lake City, the first city since Halifax.

19. Wyoming (part 4) Yellowstone National Park

Entering Yellowstone National Park Wyoming January 2013
Entering Yellowstone National Park
Wyoming
January 2013

YNP is the first national park (in the world) and is basically a massive volcanic crater where we can actually walk/drive on to the top of it. (last eruption was half a million years ago and not predicting one anytime soon so it was OK) There are a few more smaller volcanoes around in the park but this biggie has the most offerings to visitors with its ever erupting geysers, steaming prismatic hot springs, bubbling mud pools and so on. The park also packed with wildlife including huge herds of bison, elk, deer and the magnificent looking big horn sheep that gracefully hops down of steep cliffs, wonderful birds, coyotes, black and grizzly bears and my favourite; grey wolves.

Grey Wolf. Bear and wolf closure W. Yellowstone, MT January 2013
Grey Wolf.
Bear and wolf closure
W. Yellowstone, MT
January 2013

The other fun thing to get to the YNP in the winter is that, due to many cross country roads being closed, we had to drive in to Montana then back into Wyoming. This was cool so we got to see a bit of Montana also known as the Big Sky Country. Oh man, and it was. Something there that stretches out the sky and its blue sparkles as nowhere else. After a long day driving we settled at a fishing spot by a river about 40 miles from the north entrance.

River campsite Montana January 2013
River campsite
Montana
January 2013

The following morning arrived to Mammoth and straight to the ranger office to familiar ourselves with the activities around the area. Mammoth is a small posh-looking town like a little antique jewelry box. The few main buildings (the ranger office, post office a restaurant and the grand hotel) are nice, colonial looking stone buildings. Had a nice big walk around the sulphur geothermal terrace just walking distance from town.

Mammoth, WY January 2013
Mammoth, WY
January 2013

Then later we decided to visit an open natural hot spring just a few miles out of town for a plunge. No facilities just a simple car park, half a mile walk into the wilderness and we were there. The reasonable size natural pool, where the boiling hot spring mixes the ice cold river had only a few people in it. In fact it was only a 6 members Native family and us. The two little twin boys, three man and a woman looked just as beautiful and distinguished as I imagined Native Americans look. We we relaxing in the hot water enjoying listening to the 3 men singing native folk songs meanwhile admiring the rising full moon on the purple evening sky. (honestly, I didn’t make this up)

The following day we drove to the east end of this one open north road to a little town called Cooke City. Stopping every now and then for short hikes, taking photos or just admiring the wildlife. Sometimes we didn’t have a choice…

Bighorn Sheep Wyoming January 2013
Bighorn Sheep
Wyoming
January 2013

There was a section in the road that wasn’t cleared and gritted and we found a huge delivery lorry slipped into and stuck in the snowy gutter so we stopped and hooked Burt to his cab and our little Burt managed to pull the 30 ton truck out. Haven’t seen a man happier.

10

Happy man
Happy man

Cooke City is in fact in Montana (again, we were in and out of the the two states) and “city” is a generous word for the place. It’s a wonderful small town that is hugely busy in the summer and has a cool atmosphere in the winter with skidoo dudes and cross-country skiers. Seldom our ski supply we went for a nice big walk in the snow then found a fantastic place to eat dinner, have a few beers and chat with the locals.

It really was a nice place and glad we went. The next day we headed back to Mammoth and arrived finding a herd of bisons wondering around in town. It was a bizarre sight for us but apparently they do wonder in town every now and then.

Herd of Bisons in Mammoth Wyoming January 2013
Herd of Bisons in Mammoth
Wyoming
January 2013

Though the rangers jump on horse backs and herd them back to the wilderness. Mammoth is the edge of the national park so if the buffaloes would make it to the other side they’d be outside of the Park which means they would be without protection and hunters would be free to shoot them. So that was done and dusted within a few hours. We wanted to stay another night here again and before bedtime wanted to visit the natural spring bath again as our last time was so special. Well this time it was….err…. different. When we arrived we found the pool packed with screaming, laughing, buzzing college kids, drinking beer and eating peanuts. So this time wasn’t so special.

The next day we decided to move on and try to get to the Park’s west entrance. This was a 4 hours round trip out of Wyoming, in to Montana then in to Idaho then back to Wyoming. Simple.

On our way there, we stayed a night in a deserted primitive campsite by a river before we arrived to West Yellowstone and that is a whole new chapter, I’ll be reporting on that…

18. Wyoming (part 3)

Tuesday morning we set off and made our way north to Sheridan  We spent 1 night here which was such a fresh breeze of air after Gillette. We felt more confident to continue our journey with the wheel -as long as we stick with reasonably smooth roads so moved on the next day straight after visiting the National Forest Ranger Office where we met a few super cheerful people who gave us their blessing to stay in the forest (Bighorn Nat. Forest) wherever we like. And so we did.

Another beautiful, snowy wonderland and finally we had a chance for a nice walk in the crispy-aired evening with an astonishing sunset. I have to admit, since we started to see signs about wolf and bear awareness (plus people warned us to carry bear spray or gun!) I begin to lose the confidence of “I’m a tourist, nothing bad can happen to me” so walks in beautiful woods and forests became slightly nerve wracking, at least to me -and John is milking it.

We learnt that Yellowstone National Park (YNP) is mainly closed for wheeled vehicles in the winter, apart from one road that is cleared and open on the north edge of the park, but getting into the hub of the park (which is the remaining 2.2 million acres) is only permitted for skidoos with guides. However we still thought we should go to the north entrance to a town called Mammoth then see what happens. So tomorrow is Yellowstone!